Joined
·
1 Posts
Got a 5 zone Fujitsu condenser. 2 ports on the condenser are 1/2 suction while others are 3/8 suction.
all 5 of the indoor mini split units have 3/8 suction. As you can tell already, we needed a 1/2 to 3/8 reduction otherwise the 3/8 flared gas line won’t fit onto the 1/2 flare male on the condenser.
Honestly we were surprised but understand that some ports are for letter indoor units, but we thought to use a reducer from Home Depot.
One of the ports worked out fine but the other is leaking… we know why but don’t know how to solve the problem without brazing.
while we were screwing the reducer onto the condenser gas port, we were expecting the turns to get hard.Although they did, was not likeany of the other tighten connections. Instead,after I’d say a medium turn, it lowered resistance and before you know it…. We have a stripped thread on the factory male on one of the larger 1/2 gas ports that are on the condenser. Jesus Christ.
we tried another reduction from Home Depot and same thing happens. When we fill nitrogen, it leaks right there.
what to do here?
The proper thing to do would be to rebraze an original fitting but that’s risky for us as we’d be raising the temp so high and there look to be some electric or sensor cables within two inches of where we would have to braze.
Another option is to just braze the brass female reducer to the factory brass male and have it hood that way instead of the threads locking and clamping against each other, because clearly the male thread is stripped on the second or third turn on the factory male.
another option is to use jb weld, but I’m not sure if it’ll hold against cold refrigerant long term.
another option is nylon blue but I read it’s not a thread lock. We need something guaranteed to hold against 480 psi of r410a long term. Will nylon blue do the job? Anybody knows here?
Yet Another option is to use a 1/2 flared copper line and clamp it to the factory gas line on the condenser port just for the sake of hoping that there is no leak on the copper flare versus the thick Home Depot brass flare that probably won’t bend/cup while it gets threaded on. Then we would need to use a 1/2 to 3/8 reducer union andjust attach the flared 1/2 copper pipe to the3/8 copper flared mini split line. This might work but wondering if there is any better solution.
the ideal thing would be to weld the brass together or somehow form a chemical bond between the factory brass male and the Home Depot brass female flare reducer. One that r410 with 500 psi or so won’t rip through. That or some serious thread lock that is reliable.
Not trying to have replace the refrigerant every two years cause if this crap. Wondering what people here think. I’m in a tough spot tbh.
all 5 of the indoor mini split units have 3/8 suction. As you can tell already, we needed a 1/2 to 3/8 reduction otherwise the 3/8 flared gas line won’t fit onto the 1/2 flare male on the condenser.
Honestly we were surprised but understand that some ports are for letter indoor units, but we thought to use a reducer from Home Depot.
One of the ports worked out fine but the other is leaking… we know why but don’t know how to solve the problem without brazing.
while we were screwing the reducer onto the condenser gas port, we were expecting the turns to get hard.Although they did, was not likeany of the other tighten connections. Instead,after I’d say a medium turn, it lowered resistance and before you know it…. We have a stripped thread on the factory male on one of the larger 1/2 gas ports that are on the condenser. Jesus Christ.
we tried another reduction from Home Depot and same thing happens. When we fill nitrogen, it leaks right there.
what to do here?
The proper thing to do would be to rebraze an original fitting but that’s risky for us as we’d be raising the temp so high and there look to be some electric or sensor cables within two inches of where we would have to braze.
Another option is to just braze the brass female reducer to the factory brass male and have it hood that way instead of the threads locking and clamping against each other, because clearly the male thread is stripped on the second or third turn on the factory male.
another option is to use jb weld, but I’m not sure if it’ll hold against cold refrigerant long term.
another option is nylon blue but I read it’s not a thread lock. We need something guaranteed to hold against 480 psi of r410a long term. Will nylon blue do the job? Anybody knows here?
Yet Another option is to use a 1/2 flared copper line and clamp it to the factory gas line on the condenser port just for the sake of hoping that there is no leak on the copper flare versus the thick Home Depot brass flare that probably won’t bend/cup while it gets threaded on. Then we would need to use a 1/2 to 3/8 reducer union andjust attach the flared 1/2 copper pipe to the3/8 copper flared mini split line. This might work but wondering if there is any better solution.
the ideal thing would be to weld the brass together or somehow form a chemical bond between the factory brass male and the Home Depot brass female flare reducer. One that r410 with 500 psi or so won’t rip through. That or some serious thread lock that is reliable.
Not trying to have replace the refrigerant every two years cause if this crap. Wondering what people here think. I’m in a tough spot tbh.
