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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Goodman GMH950904CX furnace that occasionally does not light, especially on cold mornings. Single blinking LED error code. Have replaced pressure switch several times. I even rerouted the vent pipe since it was installed without sloping straight sections, and even runs down hill through the wall collecting water. But had same issue again this cold morning. Not sure where to go from here. Purges fine until glow plug is bright. Then gas valve does not open. Tapping pressure switch helps many times. But I tried changing the pressure switch, and the valve opened and closed repeatedly, like pulsing every second. Put old pressure switch back in and it lit fine. I did notice a slight pulse just once or twice before staying lit. Any ideas will be appreciated. Thx.
 

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Lets start by explaining the error codes and then how the furnace cycles. Steady light is normal, 0 flash means control failure - possible bad control board, 1 flash system lock out - 3 tries and locks out for 1 hour and tried again. 2 flashed means the air switch is stuck closed while 3 flashes means the air switch is stuck open. 4 flashed is high limit - no air flow or low air flow, flame detected with gas valve closed. There are more, but these are the common ones. On call for heat, the control board checks and makes sure the air switch is open. Then the venter motor comes on and the switch must close. Failure gives the above list #2 & #3. Once that is proven we start the hot surface igniter and 1-3 seconds or so later the gas valve opens. Ignition starts and we look for feed back from a flame rod. If the flame rod does not see the flame, the unit locks out and tries 2 more times. If it failed 2 more times, error code 7 flashes. So lets look at the causes of air switch issues - There is a water drain trap in the furnace. All 90%+ furnaces create a lot of water. This collects in the secondary heat exchanger which looks like a radiator just above the main fan and below the primary heat exchanger. If water is unable to leave the heat exchanger, the air switch will not make properly. Tapping on it may be just enough to make the switch. Pull off the hoses going to the trap and the heat exchanger and blow them out with pressure from your mouth. NEVER blow into the ports of the air switch as you will damage it. This resolves about 80% of all furnace issues. If you had a manometer, you could measure the pressure to the switch which would confirm the above.A reading around .2" of water column would be normal. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for your reply! I have blown through the drain pipes after this last failure to ignite and no problems since.. if it happens again I will check with the manometer. Thanks again!
 

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It happened again - cold house! I turned off and on the power and waited to see what happened. It went though the usual purge cycle, and orange glowbar. I could hear clicking like a turn signal, and when the gas came on it was also pulsing on and off a few times before actually turning on. assume it is the pressure switch again, as always. The last time this happened, i took the hose off the pressure switch and blew into the heat exchanger, hooked hose back to pressure switch and furnace lit right up. But i am sure i shook the pressure switch when i pulled the hose off.

On the pressure switch bracket, there are numbers as thought the orientation of the pressure switch actually matters. Do you know the meaning of the numbers on the pressure switch bracket?
 

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With out the model number and part number you are asking about, it's like me stating I have a car, and ask about a mount on a pressure cylinder. Car could be anything made over the past 30 years. A picture is also helpful.
 
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